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Author Topic: Accurizing Your Rifle  (Read 211 times)

Offline BoBallistic

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Accurizing Your Rifle
« on: July 30, 2019, 07:31:34 AM »
https://www.tractoptics.com/videos/how-to/accurizing-your-rifle-learn-the-hart-method

This is a link from Tract Optics that was sent to me by Jon one of the Co-Founders of Tract Optics...it is short and to the point video please watch it. It nice to know that they are some businesses out there that cater to the novice (like me). Watch and enjoy.....Bo
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Accurizing Your Rifle
« on: July 30, 2019, 07:31:34 AM »
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Offline Gutshot

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2019, 08:41:27 AM »
Very interesting and great information. It's also an inexpensive way to accurize your rifle if you can't or don't have the means to do it yourself. Thanks Bo
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Offline yari

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2019, 10:47:40 AM »
tract has several good videos on their site. i really like the way they run their business
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Offline BLUETOE

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2019, 12:19:10 PM »
That is a great deal.
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Online Madgomer

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2019, 12:57:48 PM »
The vast majority of companies out there miss this basic stuff.  It's little things like this that create loyal customers.  I wonder how many of them even sit down and attempt to use their own websites - - so often basic things like search capabilities & filtering are all hosed up and incredibly frustrating to a potential customer who doesn't know exactly what they're looking for and where to find it on the site.  And then there's my favorite thing (sarcasm) which everyone seems to be doing these days - having the little robotic "chat" support popping up while you're trying to navigate the site.  Sorry folks, I'll ask for your help when I need it, go away until then.  This is particularly annoying on car dealer websites these days.  Gets even more frustrating when most of them can't answer your question and instead want your name & number so one of their "sales professionals" can call you.  No thanks.  Sorry for the rant, just ticks me off when people misuse the technology.

And yeah, as far as the guns themselves go, a little attention to detail on accurizing will make most guns shoot well beyond the capabilities of most people who are pulling the trigger.  Glad to see a company like Tract making those simple things visible to their customer even though they're not selling the service themselves - builds a lot of credibility for them.
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Offline BoBallistic

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #5 on: August 04, 2019, 07:16:28 PM »
Don't know if this has anything to do, but since the first time I shot this Cooper M2012 (see attached picture) have not been getting the groups like I thought I should be getting out of this rifle....been getting 1.0 to 1.5 inch groups. Sometimes it has been 3 shots and sometimes 4 shots....not think too much about it thinking it is the load so I have been thinking about it the last few times and looking over the all range results.

I took this Cooper to the range and when I took it out of the gun case and put in in the gun rest ready to shoot, I was about 10 ft from the rifle when I notice it....My standard Vortex Cant level was off a bit maybe 5 degree to the left....when I got settle in behind the rifle I notice the cross-hairs were tilted to the right a bit. So now it got me worried some...why was the Cant level canted to the left and why was the Leupold VX6 reticule tilted to the right......this is not right....so I started doing a through inspection before doing anything....it looks like the back for the Vortex Cant Level was hitting the Picatinny rail!! and if not tight, would this cause this rifle to be off? So I thought to myself I should have picked this up during the initial installation....

I have spent all afternoon and disassembled the entire Scope, Rings, Cant Level. While I had it down, I check the tightness of the picatinny rain with the big yellow wrench and made sure that the picatinny rail was at 45 inch pounds (all four screws) and it was!! Next I switched out the Leupold Mark 4 low rings with the Burris Extreme Medium rings, the ones with 6 screws each....torque to rings to the picatinny base at 45 inch pounds. Mounted the Leupold scope again this time the height made the difference, going from low to med rings solved the problem. I hung the vertical string, line up the vertical cross-hair up and at the same time made sure the rifle was vertical and made sure the Vortex Cant Level was horizontal before tightening all down for sure. The last thing I did today was to bore sight it....Will check it up to make sure that everything is still snug down tomorrow.....

So still had to hang the "Bore Sighted Only" tag on it and will take it to the range and load up a couple of new loads for it hoping that this rifle will shoot dime groups now.....and hoping to make the rifle a bit more accurate.....
 
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Online Madgomer

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #6 on: August 04, 2019, 09:47:34 PM »
Bo, I assume you install your cant levels as a final step, after the base & rings & ring caps are all torqued, correct?  If so, it doesn't seem like this issue would be impacting your groups unless that cant level is moving from shot to shot causing you to adjust your hold.  Will be interested in hearing more on this after you get it back to the range - keep us posted.
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Offline BoBallistic

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2019, 08:14:38 AM »
Mad - Most of the time, I will installed the Vortex cant level when I first get the scope in, just like I did on the TRACT Response 2.5-10X 42mm BDC 1 inch tube, and about 7 or 8 other rifles scopes that are in the pile. it is not leveled up yet, I will have it near or next to the scope power ring and the will wait on a rifle to put it on. You can get it close by having bubble levels laying around (I have about a dozen of them laying in a small sandwich container) that and at any time before mounting the scope on the rifle, you can mount the cant level onto your scope...with my standard Vortex Can't Levels it has a thicker bottom part that may hinder you from mounting the scope, just depends of your rings height and other factors. Most of the time I have learned to do this now, but before Vortex I do have a bunch of different style of Cant Levels laying around and I don't throw those out at all....you never know when you may need a different one.

Yes, I still torque my scopes to 25 inch pounds (including the Vortex scopes, which they came out with a notice to only torque the rings screws down to 18 inch pounds. What I am thinking is that for some reason they had a problem with some of their China made crossfire scopes and the 25 inch pounds were crushing the tubes for some reason...but I still torque mine down to the old standard 25 inch pounds and I torque the Cant levels down to 15 inch pounds, i have never seen this anywhere and so I took it upon myself to come up with a standard that would not hurt the scopes so I came up with a good finger tightening 15 inch pounds....

The Colt Cooper had a problem is that it came from the factory with a Picatinny rail mounted onto the rifle, so I took it off and remounted it the next day and torqued it down to my standard 35 to 40 inch pounds....I will get the Warned 25 inch pound wrench and will let them set for a day and then go back and re-tightened them again. Then I will get out the big Yellow torque wrench and proceed to torque them down to 40 inch pounds and go back the next day and check them before mounting the scope....This Colt Cooper has a Leupold VX6 2-12X mounted on it.....

Next, with the Vortex Cant Level mounted near the scope power ring, will sort of see where the rings go, I like the Burris Extreme Rings (the ones that have 6 screws each) for the money they are hard to beat....now the torque amount in inch pounds for mounting the tightening the nuts onto the picatinny rail isn't rocket science, I mean you can really torque this down beyond their breaking points and strip out the bolt threads, I have done this one time many years ago, when I first use them, but not any more...the will be the first to back off or out of tension. This is why I always, the day before put the rifle in the one of two rest that I have in the gun room to give it the once over and to check all the screws to make sure that they are good and right, just the ring screws can be seen to be tightened down....

The final step is to mount the gun in the gun vise I have in the garage and to level up every thing!! will make sure the gun is level with mother earth. How do I do that is, you got to start somewhere and that is why I have a pack of shims in the garage just for this reason, you can pick up a pack at your local Home Depot or Lowe's store for under $5....so once I make sure the gun is level and I do this by starting with the stock and make sure that the stock screws are perfectly in the vertical position, that is why I have to use a few shims on the rifle, before starting the process of leveling all the components that are associated with the rifle.....so I start off by placing the rifle in the vertical position, next I will put a barrel level onto the rifle near the end of the barrel, next I will hang a long bright pink thick sting onto the old truck (2007 Tundra) off the the Thule roof rack about 35 ft from where the gun rest is located, it is weighted and the string will be straight with Mother Earth...Then I will take the scope and make sure that the rings and cant level screws are loose to a point and I will start with them....first will find the right eye relief for that particular scope. Then I will make sure that the scope is the vertical reticule is vertical to the bright pink string on the truck. I will slightly tightened them down a bit just to hold the scope, next I will put the scope up to my shoulder to check to make sure that the scope looks and feels right for me....then will put the rifle back into the gun vise and make sure with the shims that the scope is line up and all the barrel level is right. After checking and doing some adjusting of the rifle in the gun rest, if everything looks good, then will go head and start tightening the screws on the bases all 6 of them, I will tightened them just like I would a tire, alternating and making sure that the scope has not moved, sometimes it does. In my early days of scope mounting, I mistakenly tightened down the screws to early in the process and had to go back in and undo the screws and adjust the scope again. After doing this about 3 times and thinking about it, you figure it out. So today, I slowly tightened down alternate screws the front ring I start of by tightening then scope just barely enough to hold the scope in it place will do this on the front and rear scope ring. This is after I tightened down the rings screws to the Picatinny rail base and only then, start from the gun up to do your tightening of your screws, so your scope rings will be next to the last thing you tighten up...Your can level is the last component that I will tighten up.....

Sorry about the long response to your post....but only trying to help you and others understand what I do and why I do it.....Bo


 
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Offline Flintlock1776

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #8 on: August 11, 2019, 09:05:16 AM »
Very cool! I had my Rem 700SS 30.06 gun lapped a few years back by my local gunsmith.  Not sure but I don't think the lugs were touched nor the barrel floated.

That gunsmith are just south of Hershey, Pa so I could drop it off and kill some time at Bass Pro up the road
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Offline BoBallistic

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #9 on: August 11, 2019, 10:46:33 AM »
Flint - One of the things I do is to lap the barrel myself and to lap the scope rings, before I mount the scope...that is one things that I did not mention in my post about the Vortex Cant Level, is that I always lap the rings before I set the scope permanently in place....

But Yes, Lapping is a good thing, that you pay for, for the extra labor that goes into any quality barrel.....glad you had your gunsmith do it for you.....I keep telling folks that you need to have your barrel lapped OR you can shoot it a couple of hundred times that will do the same thing...but one way or another you will pay for it....another thing is to lightened your trigger, did you do that?

If you are happen with your Range Results, then it is not necessary to drop off your rifle at your gunsmith....I still would visit the Cablea's/Bass Pro Shops in Hershey....If you do drop off your rifles, it will take him at least two weeks to accurizing your rifle.....to do it right, it going to take time....the best time to have him or any gunsmith look at your rifle is around Jan.....
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Offline Flintlock1776

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #10 on: August 11, 2019, 02:45:07 PM »
Yep, trigger was brought down 3# or less I believe.

I can get it done before I move to FL as I do not have a place to rifle hunt up here.
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Offline BoBallistic

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Re: Accurizing Your Rifle
« Reply #11 on: August 11, 2019, 07:17:56 PM »
Great - Go ahead and do this and get it done before you move down to FL....

I am thinking you are moving to FL in 2020 ??

Bo
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